The alluring red lights that have not gone out for over 750 years — despite bans, wars and time itself
Behind them lies a history far deeper than it first appears.
It is here that the true character of Amsterdam shows most vividly — free, practical and extraordinarily alive.
This was once the city’s first harbour, and today history, freedom and contradiction are entwined here.
Next to the windows of the red lights rises the oldest church in Amsterdam — a silent witness to centuries in which faith, commerce and the things one does not say aloud all lived side by side.
We will work out how and why this quarter took shape precisely here, how it survived bans, wars and crises — and eventually became a magnet for the whole world.
We will talk about the lives of the women working in this quarter across different eras, about the rules that apply here today, and about how this part of the city fits into modern Dutch society.
And of course we will feel the singular atmosphere of this unique district, where freedom, ease and marijuana are in the air. And where, right alongside, Europe’s first Chinatown glows with its cheerful lights.